![]() If you don’t have this deadspace factored in your profile, it will calculate less strike water needed. This is the amount of space inside the Anvil but outside the malt pipe that your mash is never going to touch. With the 6.5, I factor in about 1.5 gallons of deadspace. As an earlier post mentioned, you have to consider all the deadspace you have around and under the malt pipe when you calculate strike and sparge water requirements. Using the ring may help with the smaller batch size in the larger Anvil, but I have no direct experience in how well it handles the lower grain bed or the efficiency you might expect from it.Back to OP’s question - I have a 6.5, not a 10, but I have not had great success with any amount of Sparge process on the 6.5, when using the Malt pipe. I spent quite some time emailing and talking to the Anvil engineers at Homebrewcon before making a final decision. In the end, the process engineer in me rationalized that it would be easier to push the limits of a system which was designed towards the 90% of my brewing preferences rather than try to make 90% of my brews at the bottom end of the capabilities of the larger system. I toyed with the idea of making a ring to slide down to block the side ports off, kind of like the small batch ring they have released as an add-on. I calculated out the grain depth and decided that the top of the bed for most recipes would be just above the perforations and that might lead to more flow bypassing the bulk of the grain bed. One of the main reasons I went with the 6.5 gal was the side perforations in the basket of the 10.5 gal unit. Once you've done it you'll get comfortable with it and it will open up a whole world of brewing opportunities to you. Also and both publish their kit recipes as well. Atlantic publishes their kit recipes on their website and they have a free recipe calculator right on the website which is what I use to scale my recipes. They sell all their grains and hops by the ounce, and with the smaller batch size, a single pack of yeast is perfect, no starter required. You type in the original recipe as published, hit the scale button and tell it what the new batch size is, and the software does all the leg work for you. Most of the software out there have a scale feature built in. If you're buying online look for recipes that are published and you can scale the recipe using brewing software like brewer's friend. ![]() If you are buying from a LHBS, you can ask them if they can scale the recipe down for you. ![]() Kits are a fine place to start, but you don't have to always buy the kit to make the kit beer. Make a decision based upon your goals and preferences. So for me, the 6.5 gal Anvil unit really fit my style of brewing and preferences. Much like others mentioned above, I prefer brewing more often, having a variety of styles, and being able to tweak recipes from one batch to the next. I have pushed the capacity and can handle a 4.75 gal (18 liters) of a 1.060 wort with a bit more fussing around and use of a second kettle for batch sparging. Getting a beer with an OG of 1.080 or a little higher is not much of a challenge depending upon your process and efficiency. I have the 6.5 gal Anvil and brew mostly 10 liter batches (2.6 gal) with the end of the boil volume being 11 liters. ![]() If you like the brewing process more and value your time versus production a little less, then 2.5 gal batches may be a more appropriate choice. If you value your time versus production more and the brewing process just a little less then 5 gal may be a better fit for you. The argument of 5 gal vs 2.5 gal batches is really one of personal preference. Click to expand.Kits are a fine place to start, but you don't have to always buy the kit to make the kit beer. ![]()
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